Materials:
- yarn - fire - King Cole Merino Blend DK Wool 300-350
gr (50g approx 112 metres, 100% pure new wool)
- 3 mm and 3,5 - circular knitting needles and
- stitch marker;
- marker.
- buttons 5 (5 nasturi)
ABREVIERI - ABBREVIATIONS
K=
knit;
P=
purl;
Kfb=
increase 1 st; knit in the front and knit in the back of the
same stitch;
sts= stitches ;
C6B= Cable 6 back: put next 3 stitches
on cable needle at back of work, knit 3, knit the 3 from the cable needle.
C6F= 1. Slip the next 3 stitches onto
the cable needle,
2. Hold the cable needle in front of the work,
3. Knit the next 3 stitches from the left hand needle onto the right hand needle.
4. Then knit the stitches from the cable needle onto the right hand needle.
2. Hold the cable needle in front of the work,
3. Knit the next 3 stitches from the left hand needle onto the right hand needle.
4. Then knit the stitches from the cable needle onto the right hand needle.
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
PM = place marker
SSK = slip two
stitches knitwise, then knit these two stitches together through the back loops
K2tog = knit two stitches together
Gauge: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10cm / 4" x 4" on 4.5mm /
US7 needles. Measured after blocking. Always use a needle size that will
achieve the correct gauge.
With smaller needles Cast
on 82 stitches by using US#4 (3.5 mm) needle.
Work 20 rows of K1, P1 ribbing.
Row 1:(WS) *(p1, k1), repeat between*, end with p1.
Row 2:(RS)
*(k1, p1), repeat between*, end with k1.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 up to Row 20.
Row 21:(WS)
change to US#6 (4 mm) needle.= k8, p10, place marker, p10, place marker, p26,
place marker,p10, place marker, p10, k8.(82 sts)
Row 22:Slip
all markers from Row 22. (RS) k5, p3, k4, p2, k4, k to last 18 sts, and Kfb
before and after markers, k4, p2, k4, p3,
k5. (90 sts).
Repeat this increasing method (Kfb before and after markers) to
every marker for every right side row.
Row 23:k8, p4,
k2, p4, k2, p to last 20 sts, k2, p4, k2, p4, k8.
Row 24:k5,
p3, C4B, p2, C4F, p2, k to last 20 sts, and Kfb before and after
markers, p2, C4F, p2, C4B, p3, k5. (98 sts).
Row 25 (WS):k8,
p4, k2, p4, k2, p to last 20 sts, k2, p4, k2, p4, k8.
Row 26: k5,
p3,k4, p2, k4, p2, k to last 20 sts, and
Kfb before and after markers, p2, k4, p2, k4, p3, k5. (106 sts).
Row 27 (WS: k8,
p4, k2, p4, k2, p to last 20 sts, k2, p4, k2, p4, k8.
Row 28: k5,
p3, C4F, p2, C4B, p2, k to last 20 sts.
And Kfb before and after markers, p2, C4B, p2, C4F, p3, k5. (114 sts)
Row 29: k8,
p4, k2, p4, k2, p to last 20 sts, k2, p4, k2, p4, k8.
Row 30: k5,
p3,k4, p2, k4, p2, k to last 20 sts, and
Kfb before and after markers, p2, k4, p2, k4, p3, k5, (122 sts).
Row 31(WS): k8,
p4, k2, p4, k2, p to last 20 sts, k2, p4, k2, p4, k8.
Repeat rows 24-31 several
times until we have 297 sts (for 11/2 year) and 232 sts (for two years).
138, 146, 154, 162, 170, 178, 186, 194, 202, 210, 218, 226, 232
173=124
Divide body and sleeves
Next Row (WS): k8, p4, k2, p4, k2, p to first marker, remove marker, place 62 sts
on a holder or leftover yarn, remove marker, p to third marker, remove marker ,
place 62 sts on a holder or leftover yarn, remove marker, p to last 23 sts, k2,
p4, k2, p4, k8. (173 sts on
the needle).
*Next Row:k5,
p3, C4B, p2, C4F, p2, k to last 20 sts,
p2, C4F, p2, C4B, p3, k5. (173
sts).
Next Row (WS):k8,
p4, k2, p4, k2, p to last 20 sts, k2, p4, k2, p4, k8.
Next Row:
k5, p3,k4, p2, k4, p2, k to last 20 sts,
p2, k4, p2, k4, p3, k5.
Next Row (WS):
k8, p4, k2, p4, k2, p to last 20 sts, k2, p4, k2, p4, k8.
Next Row:
k5, p3, C4F, p2, C4B, p2, k to last 20
sts, p2, C4B, p2, C4F, p3, k5.
Next Row:
k8, p4, k2, p4, k2, p to last 20 sts, k2, p4, k2, p4, k8.
Next Row: k5,
p3,k4, p2, k4, p2, k to last 20 sts, p2,
k4, p2, k4, p3, k5.
Next Row (WS):
k8, p4, k2, p4, k2, p to last 20 sts, k2, p4, k2, p4, k8.*
Repeat between * morfe times until you have the desired length .
70 (80) rows.
Next 8 rows: k all the end.
Sleeves
Change to US#4 (3.5 mm) needle.
Pick up stitches from a holder to US#6 (4 mm) three DPNs evenly.
Picking up plus 4 sts from cast on underarms to avoid any
gap. (2 sts on 1st DPN
and 2 sts on 3rd DPN)
Tie yarn at the middle of underarm to knit in the round.
Rounds 1-6:
k around (66 sts)
Row 7 : SSK, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (64 sts)
Repeat Round 1 to 7 (6) more times to reach round 49.
There will be total of 40 sts left on the needles.
Change to US#4 (3,5 mm) DPNs. Rounds 50-59 : (K1, p1) around. (46 sts)
Bind off knitwise to knit sts and purlwise to purl sts, weave in
the ends and fix five small buttons at the proper places.
Work opposite sleeve in the same manner.
Button Holes
Two-Step Crochet Button Loop
The
two-step button loop is my favorite. It is perfect for when a sturdy loop
is needed and also adds a nice designer detail.
First,
plan out and mark the placement of the buttons and the corresponding loops as
described above.
Next,
crochet to the placement marker and chain the number of stitches needed to
create a loop that is big enough for your button to pass through but small
enough to keep the button in place . Turn, skip two
stitches, then work one slip stitch in the next stitch .
Chain one and turn so the right side is facing you again. Work as many
single crochet stitches as needed to cover the loop . To
continue, single crochet in the next stitch and continue across the row or to
the next stitch marker.
Test the buttonhole for sizing.
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